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Discussion Starter #1
need help getting my rpm up. i used to have a 11p solas. it ran 25mph great holeshot. i put a 13p powertech and it runs 30 mph and still has great holeshot but i only have 4800 wot. i would like to try to get more rpms. jackplate? tuning?help me out here
 

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Add a cmc unit either the pt-35 or pt-130 with adapter plate. That will give you a couple mph. Then you gotta get it modified if you want more. Ran a stock yamaha 25 3 cyl (NOT a 30) with cmc pt-35 and 13p sra3 and got 35 on a brand new 1550 Havoc. Doing the mods to it right now. Should run low 40's when all is said and done and that is without port work.
 

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Jhall is right by recommending some performance upgrades which typically will give you more rpms and speed. First, you need to check a few things: 1) your hull: if its beat up or hooked, you may never make it past the low 30's in that rig. 2) your load: how much stuff are you hauling around including yourself? The speeds Jhall quoted are for a light rig ( 1 average person, gas, and battery). 3) your motor height: The higher you can run, the less drag and the faster you will go. I set my motors so that I can see the top of the cav plate when I'm trimmed up and running at full throttle. I also evaluate the height setting with some turns. If I cavitates too much with mild turns, I drop it down a little at a time until it's acceptable. 4) your motor: if your motor has some excessive internal wear, it may still run but it won't make efficient power per rpm. Stock compression should be around 125 psi cold for that motor. With all that being said, the 1542 War Eagle with a modded 3-cylinder 25/30hp Yamaha is a great running timber rig. Keep at it and you should get there.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks for yalls help. i know you guys are sharp on them 25hp thats why i come to yall. so what does hooked mean. the psi on each cyl is 135 plus. the way i read to check is 3 pulls on the rope per cyl. the boat has a plywood/epoxy floor which i know is slowing it down a little. what mods can i do to this motor. i have a guy that mods these motors but i think is way to expensive for me. he wants 600 for the 40 carbs installed and 200 to mod reed plate and tuner. 600 just doesnt sound very cost effective to me.
 

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Sounds better than 600
That's just for the carbs. Mounting and setting up linkage correctly is worth the other $150 to have somebody that knows what they are doing. Then it would be smart to do the reed cages and exhaust tuner. If you want speed you need to do the mods and add a p&t unit.
 

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just from experience if your boat is hooked it definitely makes a difference. Having the hook took out of my 542 war eagle was 3-4 mph. Im running the same set up koondawg was talkin about and the sra3 powertech 13 pitch is what runs the best on my boat. Without any mods 35 is a very reachable speed with proper set up. It took me about a year to get everything set up how i wanted it with trial and error. Most speed factors are probably half the motor and other half set up.
 

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U usually get what u pay for. I'd rather pay someone more to do a good job and right the first time then try to save a little money and end up disappointed and having to take it back and/or taking the chance of it not running to its full potential.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
What yall think about the mini grand prix jack plate. Anyone had any experience with one. I understand I would get better performance with a cmc.
 

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Jastampke, on my 542 war eagle which is a flatbottom instead of the 8deg v like the 48s in the middle of my boat you could lay a 4 ft level on it and both ends were touching but with a 3-4 inch gap inbetween proving my boat was either not in the jig very well when they put final welds on the floor and bracing or it got dropped or something during delivery causing a dent in the bottom of boat. This was brand new also. Same thing can happen from running over cypress knees snd such causing boat to drive nose down and the was being midways of boat versus back where you ate sitting which is ideal.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I haven't put a straight edge on it yet but I can see were in between the ribs it is concave slightly. Maybe 1/4 between all the ribs. Making the bottom of the boat rippled
 

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Looked at the mini grand prix jack plate.

Is it even worth the time/money for a manual plate? I had one on my old bass boat (CMC brand manual jack plate), and while it helped top speed, it was not adjustable under way. When I had it jacked up high enough for best speed, it wanted to blow out in turns unless I trimmed WAY in.

Look to me like if one had to have a jack plate, the hydraulic would be the way to go?

I think a CMC would give a better compromise of adjustability-as well as giving the ability to TILT the motor up without having to do it the old fashioned way with muscle.
 
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