suzuki dt 25 wont start

Discussion in 'Vehicles, Boats, Campers, & ATVs' started by kentuckywindage, Dec 27, 2010.

  1. kentuckywindage

    kentuckywindage Active Member

    i have a 98 suzuki 25 and it wont start i tried new plugs that didnt help i have the bulb from the tank pumped up my kill switch is in it !!! if you squirt start fluid in it will start . once it gets started it will start fine but if it sits over night it wont you have to squirt some start fluid in it and i dont really like doing that i put stabil in gas :head: any other suggestions:confused:
  2. coonnutz

    coonnutz Well-Known Member

    Oh you just need to go ahead and sell that to me for say $500.............:biggrin:

  3. DuckLn

    DuckLn Well-Known Member

    Carb rebuild kits. Get three of em and some carb cleaner and install the new needle valves. Sync the carbs per your instruction book. Whalla. Or take it to JLA in altheimer - he'll fix ya up good and has rapid turn-around.
  4. keeb

    keeb Well-Known Member

    I am having same problems with my Tohatsu. JLA will tell you not to spray Starting Fluid in there b/c it weakens the oil on the walls and will cause you more problems in the long run. I have taken my carb off twice and cleaned it and it gets a little better each time I clean it but it is till hard for it to run. Buddies told me about some technique called boiling a carb. Here is an article from that explains how to do it. I think you can get together the items yourself fairly easy or spend about $25 at a parts store for a little kit that has everything you need

    It's not hard to clean a carb. When you have it apart, make sure that your float isn't sticking and has no cracks in it. Sometimes the needle valve can get some trash on it and cause it to flood. Good luck, I know it's aggravating when your motor don't want to run in the middle of duck season.
  5. jla

    jla Well-Known Member

    The starter fluid is a bad idea, its washes the lube present on the crankshaft off, any amount of time for those bearings to run dry is bad.

    What you desrcibe does sound fuel related but to juice her with the starting fluid and then no problems until she is stone cold again????? Is your choke shutting all the way?? Had a recent instance of water in the fuel?? If it will start with the ether and then idle well I would guess the carbs are in decent shape. A poor idle is a fair indication of dirty carbs.

    The carb kits are really a rip-off. The float valve seldom needs replaced, and the gasket is ussually good. The only other part you get is the stopper, it can cause problems if it doesn't seal well. You can replace them all for about half of what one kit costs.
  6. kentuckywindage

    kentuckywindage Active Member

    once its started for the day it will start all day and run an idle the choke looks to be shut all the way
  7. jla

    jla Well-Known Member

    somethings not right, they are not hard cold starters if everything is in shape. With a good tune, any of them with a true choke valve (shutter, butterfly, call it what you will) will start readily in the temps we see here. Now the primer cold start systems on the Mercs and some JohnyRudes can be a PITA ....... should get an amen from that group.

    If the throttle and choke linkage is set up correctly there is a detent of sorts in the last little bit of choke rod travel. There is a cam on the choke linkage that contacts the throttle linkage ...... opening the throttle just a hair. It gets a little harder to pull that last bit and all clicks into place. The choke valves should be completely shut.