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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have decided to make the endeavor to start reloading! I got to talking to a man i know who reloads and he said that the best thing to start learning to reload on is a .38 spl. or .357 mag. i have an old RG .38 that was made pre 1968 (because of the importing laws). i know that if i load for it, i will have to load them pretty cold, but i am a little spooked about shooting it a lot because of the quality of the gun and the accuracy is poor. the only other center fires i have is a .30/30, a 7.62x54R, and a 7.62x39. i really don't see the need in reloading for the .30/30 because i only shoot it 3 or 4 times a year. the AK eats the cheap wolf brand ammo with no complaint and the Mosin shoots Russian surplus. I have had my eye on a Heritage Arms .32 H&R mag for a while...they sell new for 250$ where a new .357 is 350$ +. i looked on midway to price bullets and brass, and it appears that the .32 will be cheaper to shoot than my heritage .22 mag (which i use most of the time). i carry my .22 mag pistol a lot on the farm to shoot crows or snakes or the occasional stray dog or cat and the .32 mag would pack more punch. Has anyone reloaded for the .32 mag? If so, what problems did you have? Any tips?

thanks
luke:flag:
 

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Don't reload for any of the stuff that you've got, but have been thinking of starting with my 30-30. I do 243, 25-06 and am about to start with 223 as soon as my stuff comes in. It's a lot of fun and pretty rewarding knowing that you've loaded it yourself. Not to mention after the start up costs it is a fair bit cheaper to load.
 

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I reload for every center fire caliber I use. If I buy a firearm I will also order a set of dies the same day. The 30/30 is a good rifle round to learn on and any pistol round is also a good place to start.
Just be sure to get a good step-by-step reloading manual and read it before you start. :thumb:
 

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squirrel hunter

There are a couple of added steps when loading "straight wall" cases like the .38 / .357 as opposed to "bottleneck" cases like the 30-30 or the other 7.62's you mentioned.

Straight wall cases are good for a first timer to learn on...but you'll figure out that unless you sit down and do some "How To" reading, (usually placed in the first few chapters of reloading manuals), you could be easily overwhelmed.

Stuff like learning the difference between Berdan and Boxer style priming and how to recognize them could save you from destroying a good die.

Good luck and have fun.
 

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i know a lot of the basic terms (boxer primer has one flash hole, berdan has 2 or 3 and some berdan primers were corrosive). I do have the advantage of having some one to help me here locally when i run into problems.
That's the best resource you can have! Still wouldn't hurt to do some reading. I always recommend 'The ABC's Of Reloading'. Good read.
 

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I have also toyed with the thought of reloading. I picked up ABC's or Reloading a few years back, LOTS of useful information in it. I bought a box of Federal Premiums last night, 165gr, loaded with Sierra Gamekings in .308....$40. I did the math last night, 50 box of 168gr, BTSP from Nosler, and Nosler brass and a pound of VARGET, still came out to around $1.68 a round compared to the Federal Premiums at $2 a pop. Plus you would get to load for accuracy. I think I have just talked myself into picking up a good reloading manual.
 

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I have also toyed with the thought of reloading. I picked up ABC's or Reloading a few years back, LOTS of useful information in it. I bought a box of Federal Premiums last night, 165gr, loaded with Sierra Gamekings in .308....$40. I did the math last night, 50 box of 168gr, BTSP from Nosler, and Nosler brass and a pound of VARGET, still came out to around $1.68 a round compared to the Federal Premiums at $2 a pop. Plus you would get to load for accuracy. I think I have just talked myself into picking up a good reloading manual.
I have found that usually you do not save a lot of money by reloading because you end up shooting more and more and more. Reloading is a hobby that I really enjoy and I seldom consider the cost to save money. I'll admit I was attracted to reloading because I too thought it would save me a lot of money. :thumb:
P.S. I did not edit anything in your post I just hit the wrong key. Dang bifocals!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I have made up my mind to buy the .32 mag. I would rather have a .357 but i can buy a brand new .32 heritage for about 250$ at western auto where as the .357 heritage is nearly 400$. If anyone has had any experince with reloading the .32 mag, i woould really appreciate any advice.

thanks
luke:flag:
 

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I have also toyed with the thought of reloading. I picked up ABC's or Reloading a few years back, LOTS of useful information in it. I bought a box of Federal Premiums last night, 165gr, loaded with Sierra Gamekings in .308....$40. I did the math last night, 50 box of 168gr, BTSP from Nosler, and Nosler brass and a pound of VARGET, still came out to around $1.68 a round compared to the Federal Premiums at $2 a pop. Plus you would get to load for accuracy. I think I have just talked myself into picking up a good reloading manual.
Once you have the empty brass, that figure is removed from the equation. You didn't include the cost of the primers, which would add 2 cents per round.

I am going to use the same load you bought, 165 gr Game king, average load of 43.0 grains of powder (159 loads froma pound of powder, averaging $20 per pound) and the primer. Here are some figures that I come up with:

Bullet .26
Powder .13
Primer .02

This gives a total 41 cents per loaded round with your brass, or $8.20 for 20 rounds.

Adding the cost of 100 rounds of brass, the total cost for 100 rounds of loaded ammo would be $26 for bullets, $12.58 for powder for 100 rounds, $2 for primers and $28.50 for new brass. Total is $69.08 for 100 rounds of ammo loaded with new brass.
 

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Figure in the cost of your reloading equipment, deprecation rate and your time or rate per hour for labor. :thumb:
Since reloading is a hobby, I don't count cost per hour. I also don't count cost per hour for surfing the net, watching TV, sleeping or anything else I do when not at work.

Unless it was cutting into time that I would be working and making money, it's just free time to me.

If you buy good quality equipment, the reloading equipment can last a lifetime of shooting, so depreciation would be pennies a day at the most.
 

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Since reloading is a hobby, I don't count cost per hour. I also don't count cost per hour for surfing the net, watching TV, sleeping or anything else I do when not at work.

Unless it was cutting into time that I would be working and making money, it's just free time to me.

If you buy good quality equipment, the reloading equipment can last a lifetime of shooting, so depreciation would be pennies a day at the most.
I was looking at it from the point of over all number of rounds produced throughout the life of the equipment. I agree it is a hobby and hunting, fishing, and shooting is a hobby's that usually costs quite a bit of money. To me it is addictive and if reloading saves me any money I keep applying it to the hobby of shooting more and more.
However, I may have to cut back on the shooting to pay for gasoline to get to the range. Anyway it is a lot of fun. :thumb:
 

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Well I think I might pick up the Lee Reloading Kit from MidwayUSA. I have a few books, but NOT reloading manuals. I have read these books front to back many nights laying on the couch. None of them suggest which manuals. Lets say I reload using Nosler brass and Nosler bullets, would I be better off with a Nosler Reloading Manual? Right now, all I want to reload for is .308.

My next question, do any of you reloaders have your setup inside the house? I have a nice shop, but I would prefer to reload in my house. I have no children, or inside pets to knock things over. I am really only worried about the powder igniting.
 

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I used to reload in the house. For some reason, the extra bedrooms got filled up by kids... :thumb:

The main concern with reloading in the house is that it's dirty. You have powder spillage, spent primers hitting the floor and all kinds of dirt and trash. The advantage is that the climate is controlled.

As long as you get at least a couple of manuals, I personally don't think you need a brand specific one. I like to have several to cross reference with, every once in a while one slips out of the printer with a misprint. You can get lots of data online at no cost.
 

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Well I think I might pick up the Lee Reloading Kit from MidwayUSA.
My next question, do any of you reloaders have your setup inside the house?

I prefer to reload in the house but my stuff is in a storage building and has been since I moved to Italy.:smack:

I suggest that you purchase reloading tools based on to what degree you show signs of being obsessive compulsive. The only piece of Lee equipment that I have ever used is the dies and shell-holders. I love RCBS and Redding equipment.

I have three single stage presses set side by side (Redding Big Boss and two RCBS RC's) on front right of bench. Have a RCBS lever type primer set to the left of the presses, and two RCBS powder tricklers on stands on the rear left of the bench and scales, case trimer, case prep, and case lube pad in center rear of bench. Long story short...Have a 32"x60"bench top with four row's of shelving with plastic brass bins on top of those.

Between the hand-tools, manuals, dies, primers, powder, bullets, case lube, shell holders, labels, and case-gard storage boxes, there never seems to be enough room. I'm gonna build a 16'x16' climate controlled reloading area when I get home. My wife hates the constant humming of twin vibratory timblers when she's trying to sleep.:biggrin:

It's not just fun...It's addictive.:up:
 
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