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I didn't even get a newsletter from ABA when I signed up for urban hunt. All I got was a lighter wallet. Paid them and never heard from them again.

#1 best advice is find mentor that can watch or shoot with you. 2nd would be to check out Trad Gang. I didn't have a mentor and TG is how I started.

If your draw is 27-28"ish a .500 grain arrow with 125-165gr head should work fine in your #45 bow.

I bare shaft tune by where the arrow is hitting (left or right) not nock position. If you are right handed and point of impact (POI) is left your arrow is too stiff. POI right arrow is too weak. Arrow shaft can be stiffened by reducing point weight or shortening arrow. Arrow can be weakened by using longer arrow or add more point weight. You can fine tune by twisting the string to change brace height.

In my opinion wood shafts are my favorite. Easy to tune, forgiving and quite. Aluminum is 2nd. Easy to tune forgiving. Wood and aluminum have produced two holes on every deer I have shot with them. Carbon is my least favorite. Very finicky tuning. Just a tad off and it makes a lot of difference. Make cuts small and do a lot of them to get the spine you want. I have had terrible penetration with carbons. I have not had two holes in a deer with carbons. With that said carbons are my favorite for stump shooting. If footed with aluminum the arrow is basically bombproof.

Last I would tell you not to try to shoot like so and so does because that is what you have seen on a video. Talking form here not method. Shoot how you shoot and grow from there. If your natural anchor is the tip of your nose, tooth, ear or whatever use it. Say an anchor on the corner of the mouth feels weird but an anchor touching your ear lobe feels right go with what feels right for you. I have been told my pointy finger tip should be in the corner of my mouth and the cock feather should brush the tip of my nose to shoot correctly. Maybe it's true for targets or score but for hunting you will find yourself in all kinds of predicaments with position, range or whatever. Best if you feel comfortable with however your body is contorted or shooting uphill downhill or whatever. I shoot with my natural anchor of my thumb knuckled placed in a recess under my jaw.

Range. I prefer instinctive and I don't worry about how far away the target is. This takes a lot of shooting and not just the month before season opens. This requires several times a week at least. Gap is good but too much thinking involved for me. I learned the push method last year and was very impressed. With the method you choose go stump shooting. Pick a target at random, take one shot and one shot only and see how you do. Target can be a leaf, rotten stump or whatever catches your eye. I call cans or plastic bottles rabbits and must be shot at the range I see them. Might be 6 feet or 100 yards. A broken off standing tree trunk is my bear. A leaf blowing past on a windy day becomes a running squirrel. My point is make it fun.

My hunting set up:
#44 longbow I made, 500 spine Douglass fir shaft with turkey feathers and a 165gr Ace Express 2 blade. (Practice heads are 150)

Longest shot I made shooting instinctive was 32 steps shot from a tree stand. Shortest was less than 10 yards and from the ground. With instinctive I think as doable or not. Distance never crosses my mind.

I hope some of this helped. I know others will have different opinions and that's fine. This is only my opinion but I make my own stuff and have killed a few deer with trad so this is my first hand experience not what I have read or been told.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
Thanks for the tips guys looking forward to hunting with one ive passed lots of does under my climber and think a traditional bow will be lots of fun the longest shot i could take in the areas i set up in are about 30 yards hence why i asked anout disrance. I usually hunt with recurve crossbow and thats alot of fun I like my equipment to be reliable and deadly so im thinking a traditional bow is the way to go.
 

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thanks Have Gun Will Travel. That was great. I noticed that my wood 31" arrows with 125 gr field points are shooting left from my 50# recurve, but not from my 50# long bow. I assumed it was my form. I will play with heavier head. I would try heavier broadhead, but there are none to buy! two blade glue on 125-160 gr: any body got any they would sell me? Bill
 

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so, I have been unable to find any single bevel, two blade glue on broadheads. Anybody got three to sell/trade me? 125 grain would make me happy. bill
Three rivers archery has ‘em. I’d prefer to buy local, but don’t have a local trad shop.

Also, check out their online arrow spine calculator. It was right on the money for me. Be sure to enter your specific bow and arrow info accurately, especially “center cut”. You can find out how to measure that online.
 

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I just through out several old Bear Razorheads & Pearson Deadheads. I didn’t think anyone used them anymore. I shot recurves for many years. My biggest issue with distance was the deer jumping the string on those slow arrows. Much beyond 20-25 yards they ducked the arrow & out at 40 they were way out of position.
 

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the bow will do it, lots of good advice in the above responses. my limiting factor has always been me, not the bow. but... my point on is at 30, now, and with my 45 lb hoyt, in the right situation, I would not hesitate (clear shot, unspooked and motionless animal)
 
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