Mounting a CMC

Discussion in 'Waterfowl Hunting' started by NaturalStateNative, Dec 15, 2010.

  1. NaturalStateNative

    NaturalStateNative Well-Known Member

    Just picked up my boat yesterday and driving down south to pick my motor up today as soon as I leave work. I'm going to run the boat with just the motor on it for a couple days to get the feel of it but will be putting my CMC pt-130 on shortly. Since my suzuki is now a longshaft and I bought a tall transom boat I want to make absolutely sure I get it in the right place.
    What is the best way to measure the transom/motor to get it at the right height?
    And since it has 2 sets of holes in the cmc, do I want the top set to put the cavitation plate level with the bottom of the boat? or the bottom set?
    In other words, do I want to be able to raise my motor an inch and a half or lower it an inch and a half?
     
  2. greenhead smackdown

    greenhead smackdown Well-Known Member

    If you are going to mount the cav plate level then you will want to use the top holes to allow you to move it up 1 inch if needed.
     

  3. tcb

    tcb Member

    leave it off you are just askin for more trouble.
     
  4. factory909

    factory909 Well-Known Member

    why do you say that?
     
  5. keeb

    keeb Well-Known Member

    Use a piece of cardboard as a stencil to line up the motor with the Tilt/Trim.
     
  6. nturchi

    nturchi Well-Known Member

    I used the clamps(strong kind) then shifted the cmc as needed drilled and was done. If you have good one's it'll hold it with the motor on if your gentle
     
  7. greenhead smackdown

    greenhead smackdown Well-Known Member

    Don't think that is what he asked
     
  8. factory909

    factory909 Well-Known Member

    anyone know of a good place to get one of these units used?
     
  9. NaturalStateNative

    NaturalStateNative Well-Known Member

    Like "C" clamps?
     
  10. greenhead smackdown

    greenhead smackdown Well-Known Member

    Yeah, C clamps work good. The irwin brand plastic/rubber ones worked just fine for putting mine on. Sounds like you are going to be getting some good speeds once you get everything dialed in.
     
  11. NaturalStateNative

    NaturalStateNative Well-Known Member

    I hope so. I don't see why I won't get a good solid 35, maybe 36 depending on if a 15 pitch helps that much
     
  12. nturchi

    nturchi Well-Known Member

    x2

    I have some of the heavy duty irwin one's that worked well. C clamps should do just fine.
     
  13. 4hunting

    4hunting Well-Known Member

    You do not want the cavitation plate level with the bottom of the boat at all when you install the CMC. The cavitation plate should be about 3" higher on an average than the bottom of the boat on most applications I have seen. Here is the instructions as to how to install it! Rule of thumb, on the plate that mounts to the boat, Figure 2, there is a stepdown, put that lower level of the CMC level with the top of the transom when mounting as shown in Figure 4. Use the upper holes in the CMC when mounting. If it appears you need to raise the unit, them move it to the lower mounting holes which will raise the engine.


    Here is you a link to the factory instructions:

    http://www.cook-mfg.net/PDFs/PT-130 Owners Manual.pdf
     
  14. nturchi

    nturchi Well-Known Member

    check ebay and craigslist, I think I may even have heard that someone callin the company or a dealer and asked about $ of refurbished one's.
     
  15. park duck

    park duck Well-Known Member

    scratched and refurbished:thumb:
     
  16. greenhead smackdown

    greenhead smackdown Well-Known Member

    This is not true information at all. It should not be 3" higher on "average". It should be 3" higher at best. I would like to find many aluminum hull duck boats that will turn sharp without blowing out if the motor is more than 3" higher than bottom of the transom. The motor*(cavitation plate) needs to be b/t 1"-3" higher than bottom of the transom. If you start out with mounted closer to the 3", then i would use the bottom holes to mount, but if you first mount it around 1" above, then i would use the top holes. I have installed around 6 of these things, and that is usually a good rule of thumb.
     
  17. 4hunting

    4hunting Well-Known Member

    Agreed on the blowing out during a turn, but any boat be it a flatbottom or a high performance go fast will blow out in a turn when trimmed up, thats why you trim them down to do a powerturn!

    As to the 3" deal, keep in mind here that he is not using a PT35 with alot less offset, but he is using a PT130 with a 6" offset, keep that in mind! Anyway, no nevermind what I say, here is where they say it should be off their site:

     
  18. NaturalStateNative

    NaturalStateNative Well-Known Member

    So, if I shim my motor up the way it sits on the boat right now and try it out, will that at all give me an idea of how it would perform at the same height on the cmc? or would the setback completely change everything?
    Also, I just had my shortshaft suzuki swapped over to a longshaft mounted to a 21" transom, if that makes a difference at all
     
  19. QCDually5.9

    QCDually5.9 Super Member<br>Forum Sponsor

    Proper engine height depends on several factors. Including prop, hull, customer expectations and most of all... proper water collection for cooling purposes. Seldom are any two proper set-ups the same unless they include the same boat, motor and prop. If you are installing the pt-130, set it on the transom at it's highest point. Start with the motor at it's lowest. Do afew runs and keep an eye on the water tell-tail. Go up from there to the next level and so on. You will find that a certain setting fits your needs. (For the most part, the highest setting is where most boats run. Unless you have a near vertical transom)