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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought a Kawasaki Mule and I'm looking for a light bar for it. Or a pair of "dually" lights to replace the stockers.

Y'all got any suggestions on where to buy them-preferably locally? (like maybe a flea market or discount warehouse or something like that).

I can get Rigid Industries lights from where I work, but they are high $$$ and very good quality. This Mule is a beater. I don't want to put $500 light on a $100 Mule.
 

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Check out some MaxLumensInc lights. I've got a 15" alpha series bar and they are less than $200 and 7800 lumens. They are all about the same led bulbs are led bulbs. Aluminum housings and all
 

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Ebay, i just bought a 24" 120watt for $90 & free s&h. Same aluminum housing and rust free body as the others.
 

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The ones I've seen on eBay come with the harness vs buying one of the others that I've seen the harness is extra. Same light, same Cree LEDs, same housing only different stickers. Now I will say you have to watch what type of lens is on them b/c they so vary
 

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I still haven't figured out why everyone is tied up on them having a wiring harness. If somebody isn't smart enough to run a pos and neg wire to a switch and battery from the light.... They don't need to be operating a boat anyway
 

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I still haven't figured out why everyone is tied up on them having a wiring harness. If somebody isn't smart enough to run a pos and neg wire to a switch and battery from the light.... They don't need to be operating a boat anyway
I just ran some cable like a extension cord from front to back and wired in a switch and a fuse. That's all you have to do.
 

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I just ran some cable like a extension cord from front to back and wired in a switch and a fuse. That's all you have to do.
Yeah any kind of wire will do the job. Folks act like if it doesn't have a pre made wiring harness with directions that decreases its value by 50% or something. Wow
 

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I still haven't figured out why everyone is tied up on them having a wiring harness. If somebody isn't smart enough to run a pos and neg wire to a switch and battery from the light.... They don't need to be operating a boat anyway
:thumbup: I second your statement!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the suggestions, guys.

I found a sweet deal at Duncan's in Conway-they had a couple of the 4" round Seelite brand LED's, that fit the factory Mule 2510 brackets PERFECTLY. I was in there picking up a couple park brake cables and the parts guy said they'd had those round ones on the shelf for a while and I was able to score them for 20% off. Only thing I had to do was bolt them down and crimp on a couple bullet connectors. I really wanted a 40" bar, but it's hard to justify the cost no more than I'll use this thing. Tried the LED's tonight and they work perfectly. I saw the lady's house at the end of the road, which is about 3/8 mile away-and could see everything down there just fine (and I'm about half blind). Works for me.
 

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How big of a bar can you run before you need a relay? Just bought a 30 inch Maxlumens bar for my top drive coyote hunting truck. I'm wondering if I can just use the wiring from the 55w lights I'm replacing or will I need to use a relay?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The Cree brand LED 30" bar pulls roughly 12.85 Amps. If you had a long run of wire, you'll see some loss through that wire. Also, you'd want a switch that would pass at least 20A continuous. Maxlumens I'm not familar with. Probably not too far off of the Cree's.

If the one you have is anywhere close to the amp draw of the Cree that I'm familiar with, it's highly advisable to run a relay. Relay will keep the voltage up to near battery voltage, and more importantly it will take the load off of the switch and the wires that feed the switch. Then the relay can be used to pass the load Amperage, which is safer. Be sure to use a fuse-or a circuit breaker.

At only 13A, it's possible to feed it directly through a switch without a relay, but knowing what most switches these days are made of, the switch wouldn't last very long. 99% of them are garbage. A relay will complicate the install slightly, but simplifies the overall experience. IOW, you won't be replacing switches every 6 months or however long they last.
 

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Thanks. I'll pick up a relay kit on my way to the ranch. Maybe I'll just leave the other lights and come off the same switch now. How much draw will there be on the switch side of a relay? I would think it would be minimal and should be fine to tie that side in to the headlights as long as the other side is coming off the battery?
 
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