I usually start with the lightest load and work my way up. I also shoot mine in single shot mode and inspect each case as it comes out of the chamber for possible pressure problems. That might not be necessary but I'm fond of my body parts and their current operation. I start with a clean barrel, so it's only fair for each different load to start with a clean barrel as well so I clean the barrel between each load. Now on the targets themselves I used to pre-print which load would be shot at it but after the first mismatch I quit that practice and started doing it after I had the load to be fired set out on the bench, (yes, I only take one load at a time to the bench with me the others are in the truck seat until it's their time and there's an reason I do that) only then to I print the load type onto the target.
I'm Reloading, now what?
I went on IMR's and Sierra's websites and found loads for my 243 using the bullet powder combinations. Starting load was 38.5 gr and maximum load was 42 gr. I loaded up 5 each 38.5, 39, 39.5 and so on up to 42 gr. of powder. So in all I've got 40 good charged rounds (and about 6 screw ups of varying degrees:smack: )
I marked each individual case with the load in it and also marked it in my shell box.
My gun is sighted in at 1.75" high at 100 yards and shooting right down the middle with 100gr Winchester power points. I've been getting less than MOA accuracy with that load and now have 100gr. Sierra Game king boat tails loaded.
My plan is to shoot print some 8.5x11 targets and use a different target for each load, So I don't get mixed up.
Should I just start with the smallest and move up? Should I got with the odds (.5's) and then the even gr? Start at the middle and move out?
Or does it really matter at all what order I do it?
Do I need to put a brass brush down the gun after each different load?
Why is the sky blue, why are kitty eyes shaped different, why is uncle Ben in prison, is it 'cause....................
Sorry, I got on a roll with questions.:biggrin:
I marked each individual case with the load in it and also marked it in my shell box.
My gun is sighted in at 1.75" high at 100 yards and shooting right down the middle with 100gr Winchester power points. I've been getting less than MOA accuracy with that load and now have 100gr. Sierra Game king boat tails loaded.
My plan is to shoot print some 8.5x11 targets and use a different target for each load, So I don't get mixed up.
Should I just start with the smallest and move up? Should I got with the odds (.5's) and then the even gr? Start at the middle and move out?
Or does it really matter at all what order I do it?
Do I need to put a brass brush down the gun after each different load?
Why is the sky blue, why are kitty eyes shaped different, why is uncle Ben in prison, is it 'cause....................
Sorry, I got on a roll with questions.:biggrin:
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Ok, other than the thing ripping apart, what are signs of pressure problems?
I don't know all of them the main thing I look for is splits in the cases and I've been told to check to see if the primer is backed out. The last one Mr. Chitlin or somebody with that amount of knowledge could clarify and give you/us more tips.
Possum gave some great suggestions. Start with the lowest load and work up, that way if you have pressure problems mid way, you aren't working with overpressure loads. Also, be sure to replace the target after each group of loads and be sure to mark the targets with the load so that you can analyze them when you get home.
The only sure way to know the pressure is the have pressure measuring equipment hooked up to the gun. Since most of us don't have the $$$$$ that it takes to buy this stuff, we do the next best thing, which is look at the case. One sign to look for is sticky extraction. If the bolt is hard to lift, or if it is a single shot and the extraction is difficult or you have to dig the case out of the chamber, that is a sign you might have high pressure. It could also be a sign of a dirty chamber.
An other sign of high pressure is flattened primers. If they are flat, and fill the primer pocket completely and possibly flow back into the firing pin channel, you have signs of over pressure. Popped primers could be a sign of high pressure, it could also be a sign of worn out brass. Federal brass has an especially bad rep for loose primer pockets after the first firing. I know shooters that won't reload Federal brass, although I will and if it pops a primer, I throw it in the recycle bin. The main thing to remember is that if ANYTHING doesn't feel right, STOP and figure out where the problem is.
As long as you followed the manual, and know that your powder charges are correct, I see a long and enjoyable future of reloading for you. Be sure to check in after you shoot your loads and let us know how they shoot. Also give us an update on how many fingers you have left... :biggrin:
The only sure way to know the pressure is the have pressure measuring equipment hooked up to the gun. Since most of us don't have the $$$$$ that it takes to buy this stuff, we do the next best thing, which is look at the case. One sign to look for is sticky extraction. If the bolt is hard to lift, or if it is a single shot and the extraction is difficult or you have to dig the case out of the chamber, that is a sign you might have high pressure. It could also be a sign of a dirty chamber.
An other sign of high pressure is flattened primers. If they are flat, and fill the primer pocket completely and possibly flow back into the firing pin channel, you have signs of over pressure. Popped primers could be a sign of high pressure, it could also be a sign of worn out brass. Federal brass has an especially bad rep for loose primer pockets after the first firing. I know shooters that won't reload Federal brass, although I will and if it pops a primer, I throw it in the recycle bin. The main thing to remember is that if ANYTHING doesn't feel right, STOP and figure out where the problem is.
As long as you followed the manual, and know that your powder charges are correct, I see a long and enjoyable future of reloading for you. Be sure to check in after you shoot your loads and let us know how they shoot. Also give us an update on how many fingers you have left... :biggrin:
I might add that you probably need to let your barrel cool between shooting your groups. If the barrel continues to get hotter without a cool down between groups you can get inconsistent results with your reloads.
I always take a 22LR with me so I can have something to shoot while the rifle barrel is cooling. :thumb:
I always take a 22LR with me so I can have something to shoot while the rifle barrel is cooling. :thumb:
Also give us an update on how many fingers you have left... :biggrin:
man that aint funny.
Yep, I forgot about that.I might add that you probably need to let your barrel cool between shooting your groups. If the barrel continues to get hotter without a cool down between groups you can get inconsistent results with your reloads.
I always take a 22LR with me so I can have something to shoot while the rifle barrel is cooling. :thumb:
What are friends for!! :thumb:
Just for a general time frame how long do ya'll allow the barrel to cool between rounds?
There's nothing wrong waiting a minute or 2 between shots, especially if trying to squeeze the last bit of accuracy out of it.
An other sign of high pressure is flattened primers. If they are flat, and fill the primer pocket completely and possibly flow back into the firing pin channel, you have signs of over pressure. Popped primers could be a sign of high pressure, it could also be a sign of worn out brass. :biggrin:
What he said. Flattened primers and difficult extraction.
I usually shoot a three round group and then cool the barrel by feeling with my hand periodically until it has cooled off. The main thing is to open the action so air can circulate into the bore of the barrel.Just for a general time frame how long do ya'll allow the barrel to cool between rounds?
I have seen bench rest shooters use a small battery powered fan to blow air through the bore and over the barrel.
What you are trying to do with a hunting load is to get as close as you can to shooting with a clean cool barrel..the same as you would when you fire a shot at a deer.
So my waiting around for 4 or 5 minutes might be a bit of over-kill, and are suggesting running at least a clean swab through the barrel between shoots?What you are trying to do with a hunting load is to get as close as you can to shooting with a clean cool barrel..the same as you would when you fire a shot at a deer.
Now I need to find a nice clean flat place to shoot.
I'm not in a real big hurry here, I waiting on a 4-14x44 Aetec to top my .243 off, it should be here sometime this week.:thumb:
I've got a Nikon Pro-staff on mine. The aetec is what I actually wanted, but Wal-Mart was out of them at the time and I figured if I didn't get one then I would blow the cash. The guy at the counter suggested the Nikon. I love it. Let me know how my 1st choice would have worked out.
I figure if they're good enough for Mr. C they're good enough for a slob shooter like me. :biggrin: But I'll let ya know how it works out.
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
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