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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got a bunch of data online from the powder and bullet manufacturers website when I started reloading 243, but the net doesn't seem to be as forthcoming with 25-06 data. I've got some IMR 4350 and some Reloader 22 and need to know what are the minimum and maximum loads for 25-06 Shooting a Hornady 100gr. SP with a flat tail.

Understand if you don't feel comfortable giving that info out on here, but would appreciate a pm if you would be ok with that.
 

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I got a bunch of data online from the powder and bullet manufacturers website when I started reloading 243, but the net doesn't seem to be as forthcoming with 25-06 data. I've got some IMR 4350 and some Reloader 22 and need to know what are the minimum and maximum loads for 25-06 Shooting a Hornady 100gr. SP with a flat tail.

Understand if you don't feel comfortable giving that info out on here, but would appreciate a pm if you would be ok with that.
Here is some info from the Speer Reloading Manual Number Nine:
For IMR 4350 100 GR. Spitzer Muz Vel/ 200 yd Vel/ 200 Yd Energy /
Min Load 49.0 3036 / 2535/ 1425
Mid Load 51.0 3153/ 2633/ 1538
Max load 53.0 3278/ 2737/ 1661

Sorry no info for Reloader 22
 

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I got better velocities from REL22 in my 25/06 vs IMR4350. Shooting 56.0 grains of REL22 under a 100 grain Nosler Ballistic Tip, I average just over 3300 fps across the chrono. It's been so long since I started using that load, you'll have to check other sources before you use it. I don't remember how close to max it is. I do use 4350 in 243 and 30/06 loads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I've seen a couple places that put the max at 58, but didn't say what the minimum was or didn't have data for a 100gr. bullet. Do you think that the load for that Nosler should be good or a close starting place?
 

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I've seen a couple places that put the max at 58, but didn't say what the minimum was or didn't have data for a 100gr. bullet. Do you think that the load for that Nosler should be good or a close starting place?
It's always best to start low and work up. Starting at 51 to 52 grains and working the load up while watching for any pressure signs will be the best route.
 

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You're gonna love this one :up:

http://stevespages.com/page8.htm

All kinds of good reloading info. His 'table 4' at the bottom is where his reload data is. From what I gather, he plugs in the min and max for every powder and bullet weight for every caliber from every manual. Most of his max charges (that I've actually looked at anyway) are somewhat higher than what's published online by the powder people, so as with anything not actually published and EVERYTHING you read online, use these numbers with caution and as a reference - not a rule.
 

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I looked on steves pages the other day. I didn't like what I saw because it didn't match the books that I've read.

Even the books you read won't match at times. I've seen one manual show a MAX load lower than another shows the STARTING load. I just compare several reliable sources and make my decision from there. It's better to start a little low ansd work up than to be too high to start off with. A lot of the times, you'll find that the more accurate loads aren't the maximum loads. A deer won't know the difference in getting hit at 2700 fps vs 2900 fps anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
One of them, I think Steves, had the minimum load at 25 gr. RL 22 and Maximum was like 48gr. That seemed like a pretty big difference and it seems like I heard somewhere that too little powder could cause the same problems as too much. Is that true?
 

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My concern with too little powder is not only such a low velocity that you get a bullet stuck in the barrel, but I have also heard that too little of a charge could lead to the possibility of detonation, which causes an explosion. I don't really ever recall it in a rifle, but have heard of numerous cases in handguns using very small powder charges intended for light target loads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
243 Hornady BTSP 100 Gr.
25-06 Hornady SP 100 Gr.

You're the man Wes. I've got a data base started on my computer that has all the load information that I've gotten so far. I think my plan will be to stay within the parameters of all of them and call that my "Safe Zone".
 

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Thanks, but SAR offered to actually scan the pages for ya :wink:

Don't be afraid to work up to a maximum load if that's where you're starting to see the best accuracy. Just keep the 'working up to' part in mind. I usually start out in the lower-middle range and build loads up to whatever Steve's pages lists as the max. If I start to see pressure signs before I hit my hottest loads I just take them home and unload them. A good rule of thumb for checking pressure signs is to compare the primer from one of your mild loads to each of your hotter loads - when they start to look 'different', that's your gun's max. Thos handi-rifles also have a way of coming out of battery (chamber popping open) when you're using a too-hot load.
 

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I dunno how common it is, but its a good reason to pay attention to the tell-tale pressure signs :wink:

One other thing - Handi-rifle frames also stretch. That's why the barrels seem to 'work loose' over time, but its actually the frame getting longer, so the barrel doesn't lock up as tight. Hot loads stretch the frames faster, so you'll get more service life out of them if you keep your loads moderate. They are only heat treated to somewhere in the high 20s on the rockwell hardness scale. Encores are somewhere in the 40s, which is why they can offer magnum chamberings. Also why they cost more.
 
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