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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’ve been watching The Push videos this afternoon and felt the urge to go out and shoot. I decided to just shoot flat on the ground at 22 yards with my glasses on. The reason I mention my glasses is because I struggle to shoot with my glasses on because the string hits my glasses.
I shot a few and wasn’t doing that well, but I felt I wasn’t getting full draw. I decided to quit pulling to right under my eye and pull to under my jaw. I felt like I’m getting full draw. I decided to measure my arrows and I think my arrows my be too long to be at full draw with the nock right under my eye. I’m 6 ft tall and my bow is [email protected] I’ll provide a few pics keep in mind the shorter arrow is the one I have left from the 4 I got with this bow. The other arrows are what the archery shop cut me.
Font Publication Landscape Slope Soil
Font Grass Travel Wood Slope
Font Asphalt Publication Gas Rectangle

These are Easton 2114 aluminum arrows.
Temperature Thermometer Household thermometer Plant Measuring instrument
 

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As long as it’s tuned right the arrow can be 4’ long and still be right.
A longer arrow will give you a closer point on distance if you’re gap shooting but it’s not a good idea to just go playing with arrow length without taking the spine into account.
Have you shot any bare shafts to see if your spine is correct?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No I haven’t, buts because I really don’t understand what that means, I know YouTube it.
Here what got me to this question. I’m shooting mainly from deck so my arrows are about 12 feet off the ground. I can pretty consistently shoot from that height at 15&18 yards. But when I get on the same level as the target at 20-22 yards I can rarely hit the kill zone unless I either gap shoot or nock under my jaw.
 

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It sounds more like a form issue than an arrow length issue if you are hitting a drastically different point of impact from different angles. It’s usually a little bit different but shouldn’t be more than an inch or two.

You might set up your phone and film yourself shooting from both positions and see if there is a difference.
If you’re lowering your bow arm to shoot downhill instead of bending at the waist it will change your draw length, string angle, and all kinds of other stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It sounds more like a form issue than an arrow length issue if you are hitting a drastically different point of impact from different angles. It’s usually a little bit different but shouldn’t be more than an inch or two.

You might set up your phone and film yourself shooting from both positions and see if there is a difference.
If you’re lowering your bow arm to shoot downhill instead of bending at the waist it will change your draw length, string angle, and all kinds of other stuff.
Ok thanks bud that makes sense. I’ll keep working on it.
 

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it can be confusing at first, took me a long time to figure out spine. bare shaft up close, starting with a long arrow and whatever point weight you want. if the arrow hits tail left, it is too flimsy, cut it off a bit to stiffen it up- start with 1/4 inch increments. if it hits tail right, too stiff, use more point weight or get a different spined arrow. you want it to hit tail left, so you can trim it down. I personally like a longer arrow so that my gaps are not too big, so I go with a long stiff arrow, and heavy point weight (75 grain insert with 125 grain head) and then trimmed till she hit dead straight at about 5-10 yards. then fletch her up and shoot.
if your form is inconsistent, it is hard to do the tuning properly. youtube some tom klum for form vids. get that nailed down, then tune it up. might as well blank bale for form up close until your form is good.
 
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