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Ok guys, I got my first coat of stain on my 30-30 (see here http://www.arkansashunting.net/showthread.php?t=38448) last night at about 7:00. It went on great and looks awesome. I put it on with a rag and didn't put a thick coat on at all. Well, this morning I go in there (over 12 hours later) and it's still really tacky to the touch.:head: It doesn't leave a finger print so it's not that tacky but nearly. I stripped the wood of the old finish and was down to bare wood before applying the new finish so that was not it. Any ideas? :head:
 

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Too much moisture in the room and the wood wasn't sealed.
I did it inside the house. But what do you mean about the wood not being sealed? I thought you are supposed to but the stain on the bare wood. :confused::confused: That is what I've done in the past on wood items with no problems. So you have to seal the wood before sealing it with the stain/poly?:confused:
 

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Anytime I'm working with wood I always use a sealer on it! Just something a cabinet maker taught me!
Ok. So how do I fix my problem? I've heard wiping it down with a rag soaked in 100% mineral spirits will get off the excess that is tacky but not hurt what has already soaked into the wood. I've read where this helped others that had this problem. So if I wipe it down with the mineral spirits, then let that get dry, then apply a 2nd thin coat of the stain (I'll add another coat or two once that dries) do you think I will be ok? :head:
 

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I'd let it set for a while. If you've ever used linseed oil, it does take a few days to cure. Boiled linseed oil drys faster. I beleive linseed oil is a major component of Tru-oil, but I'm not sure if it's boiled or not....

Park it for a while, then buff it out. I hate to wait, too! :frown:
 

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Check and see what type of stain you used. Some stain like Minwax has a sealer additive in it. Just let it completely dry. If you try to apply Tru-oil to it now it will streak the stain. Tru-oil will also leave a "blister effect" if the stain is not completely dry. I like to use tinted oil rather than stain then oil.

It doesn't matter if it's Tru-oil, Danish Oil, or Boiled Linseed oil. They all are a form of Flax-seed oil. Pretty much all the same except Tru-oil and Danish Oil are tinted. Tru-oil is formulated to dry with a gloss, Danish Oil will dry with a satin finish. Boiled Linseed oil will dry with a gloss also it just doesn't have the tint that Tru-oil does.

I wouldn't sand or buff after you applied the stain. It will ruin the look. Wait till you hand rub in some oil and seal it before you take some 00 steel wool to it. Repeat process after drying. Do this about three times before you take the 000 steel wool to it. It will be ready for some stock sheen or buffing/polishing then.
 

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Give it a few days....go fishing...get your mind off of it until the humidity goes down. Paint/varnish/stains with polyeurethane in them all will take considerably longer to dry when it's humid...I think right now and the last couple days, my guage said 100% on the humidity.
 

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I did it inside the house. But what do you mean about the wood not being sealed? I thought you are supposed to but the stain on the bare wood. :confused::confused: That is what I've done in the past on wood items with no problems. So you have to seal the wood before sealing it with the stain/poly?:confused:
I don't ever seal bare wood.It should have dryed just fine.maybe give it a little longer.
 

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Give it a few days....go fishing...get your mind off of it until the humidity goes down. Paint/varnish/stains with polyeurethane in them all will take considerably longer to dry when it's humid...I think right now and the last couple days, my guage said 100% on the humidity.
X2................My ex FIL was an upholstry man, refinished furniture...he hated to do things with the humidity high like it is...took too long to dry/cure...........
 

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Flintknapper is right, with the high humidity from the rain we've had, it will take any BLO based finish several days to cure to a hard finish. On one of my Enfield stocks I refinished last spring (high humidity), I did 3 total coats of BLO, with a 5-6 day cure time between coats.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Flintknapper is right, with the high humidity from the rain we've had, it will take any BLO based finish several days to cure to a hard finish. On one of my Enfield stocks I refinished last spring (high humidity), I did 3 total coats of BLO, with a 5-6 day cure time between coats.
I don't have the patients for that!!!! :hair::pullhair: (but I guess I'll have too.)

So why can't I take the mineral spirits and wipe it off with that and then let it dry over night and add another coat tomorrow? I was looking on some wood working sites and that's what is recomends if the stain is still tacky after 24 hours. I mean it won't hurt the finish that has soaked into the wood so I don't see why it would be a problem. Wipe it down with the mineral spirits tonight, then apply a 2nd coat tomorrow night. Anyone see a problem with that?? :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Did you try the iron and damp towel trick? If so, did it work?
Yes and yes! I had some dents in the bottom of the forearm where it had been resting on stands and stuff for shooting and it took them out! :up: Now if I just get this dang stain to dry I'm going to be in bidness! :smack::up: er....a I guess my wife will be in bidness.
 

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I don't have the patients for that!!!! :hair::pullhair: (but I guess I'll have too.)

So why can't I take the mineral spirits and wipe it off with that and then let it dry over night and add another coat tomorrow? I was looking on some wood working sites and that's what is recomends if the stain is still tacky after 24 hours. I mean it won't hurt the finish that has soaked into the wood so I don't see why it would be a problem. Wipe it down with the mineral spirits tonight, then apply a 2nd coat tomorrow night. Anyone see a problem with that?? :confused:
If you're just waiting on the stain to dry, then absolutely, wipe it down with mineral spirits, let it sit overnight, and start finishing with Tru Oil. I didn't read your post as thoroughly as I should, I thought you had already applied the Tru Oil, and it was still tacky. Sorry.:doh:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
If you're just waiting on the stain to dry, then absolutely, wipe it down with mineral spirits, let it sit overnight, and start finishing with Tru Oil. I didn't read your post as thoroughly as I should, I thought you had already applied the Tru Oil, and it was still tacky. Sorry.:doh:
No prob. It is still as tacky this morning as it was yesterday morning and it's been sitting in a room with the fan on high since I put the coat on. I think it's mineral spirits time. :up: Man it sure does look beautiful though!! :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well I got home from work last night and went straight in to check the stock. It was still extremely tacky and it didn't feel like it had made any progress. So, I took a clean cloth and put a little mineral spirits on it and wiped it down. Made a HUGH difference! Took all the excess, tacky stain off but didn't hurt the color at all because some of the stain had soaked into the wood. I then wiped it off with another clean rag really well and let it sit for about 5 1/2 - 6 hours under the fan to dry any mineral spirits that were still on there. Then I applied a 2nd coat of stain. I let this coat sit on there for about 5-10 minutes then took another clean cloth and wiped it down to remove the excess. Looks great and it was not tacky this morning. I'm letting it dry till tonight and I'm going to put my 3rd and final coat on there. I can’t wait till it's all finished and back together!:thumb:
 
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