25 ESH Yamaha

Discussion in 'Vehicles, Boats, Campers, & ATVs' started by Grinnel Slough, Dec 15, 2012.

  1. Grinnel Slough

    Grinnel Slough Well-Known Member

    735
    184
    Beebe
    Got a question for y'all experienced on the 25 Yamaha.

    Problem started about 6 month ago. Seems to be getting worse. At various times my electric start won't work. Like the switch just doesn't set it off. Then I go to pull start and it fires up. I have noticed if I go to shifting from fwd to reverse it may start. I have heard there is a neutral safety switch but when I try to pull start it in gear you can't pull it out until u have the lever in neutral. Any help would be appreciated
     
  2. Couple common issues....

    One-neutral switch. It's plastic and mounted behind the starter motor. You can grab a flashlight & have a peek down there while you're moving the shifter. You'll see how it works. Sometimes the switch breaks. Sometimes it just fails internally and if that's the case, the only way to know is to use a test light or VOM.

    Two-shift dog pin. Down in the foot is a pin that goes through the shift dog. If (when) it breaks (which is common) the shifting will be "odd"....meaning that when you move the shifter to forward, it seems normal but finding neutral and reverse are......challenging? Can't think of a better word. That pin is like $15 or something (cheap) but when it breaks it's extremely hard to find neutral, which means you have to screw with the shifter for a while to make the neutral switch "work". It won't just "fall" into neutral like they're supposed to do.

    Also....if the shift rod is out of adjustment, it'll be odd to shift as well. Usually not common unless someone who hasn't done one before pulled the foot for whatever reason and didn't know how to reinstall the link.
     

  3. Grinnel Slough

    Grinnel Slough Well-Known Member

    735
    184
    Beebe
    Not sure about the pin but looking at the neutral switch I got a good basis for how it works down there.

    A push button that is actuated with the first level off the shift rod. Seems like it doesn't wanna seat the button unless u get it just right into neutral. Trying to find the pin your taking about to see if its busted.

    I do think my adjustments I be out of whack as well. It seems to pop outta reverse when u put any kind of thrust against it. Guess I will hafta take it in. Don't know the first thing about rigging the linkage it looks simple but without experience I bet you can Booger it up.

    U have a pic of the pin I need to checkout just so I can clear that.
     
  4. If you don't feel comfortable messing with the lower unit, by all means contact someone who does. I've done a number of them myself and the first few are always nerve racking. I can't find any pics or videos online. Its a matter of removing the two 10mm bolts behind the prop, then pull on the prop. Everything comes out in one piece except for the shift pin, which usually falls out (it goes into the end of the propshaft).

    The clutch dog pin goes through the propshaft and has a spring behind it. If that's broken/cracked, the shifting is all whacked. Hard to find neutral, jumps out of reverse, etc. Everything I've seen shows how to remove the foot on Youtube, but nothing for disassembly.
     
  5. Grinnel Slough

    Grinnel Slough Well-Known Member

    735
    184
    Beebe
    I do t know if its that. The more I mess with it neutral is easy to find and reverse is there it just feels like its not settling into reverse. Like it maybe only slightly engaging. Then when I put some throttle into it it jumps out. I think it may be the neutral switch for the starting issue. As when in neutral I have to shift the level slightly and u can hear the button click and then it's good. Either the part that actuates the neutral switch button connected to the shift rod or the actual button is sticking.
     
  6. Grinnel Slough

    Grinnel Slough Well-Known Member

    735
    184
    Beebe
    When I say settling into reverse it sets in fine and its ther by feels like its only engaged slightly. Then it will reverse the boat but when I put a little more that idle into reverse it comes out into neutral. It will work fine if I keep my hand on the shift lever and reverse the motor.
     
  7. factory909

    factory909 Well-Known Member

    I traded my Suzuki for a day and the Yamaha was having the same problem with reverse. It was the an arm that needed a slight bend to fix it.
     
  8. Grinnel Slough

    Grinnel Slough Well-Known Member

    735
    184
    Beebe
    That may be it. The rod that goes from lever to neutral switch does look pretty worn.
     
  9. Grinnel Slough

    Grinnel Slough Well-Known Member

    735
    184
    Beebe
    You were absolutely correct with the neutral safety switch. Took it off and manually pressed it. No problems put it back same prob. Over rode the shift level with a flat tip on the switch. No problems. They were smart and it's plug and play. So I just bypassed the switch for now and direct connected both sides. Starts flawlessly, but could be dangerous I guess if I ain't careful.

    Now to try to get it to go further into reverse. The problem lies in when I idle in reverse no problems. The minute I give it more than idle input it will slip into neutral. Do y'all think if I lengths. The first rod coming off the shift level it would help? If I take it out a turn or two to push it further into reverse will it jack up fwd? Doesn't slip out of fwd ever and seems to go alot further I to it than reverse. Also the shift lever hits on its stop when u put it into reverse. When u grab it and push it back it seems like it may have more travel a available.
     
  10. QCDually5.9

    QCDually5.9 Well-Known Member

    If the lower unit has been removed for whatever reason (impeller, seals, etc.), the shift shaft was not correctly adjusted as it went back together. I would leave the shift lever adjustment alone unless it too has been worked on in the past. NOTE: Allowing the problem to continue will lead to damage to the reverse gear and clutch dog. Which will sluff metal shavings throughout the system and thereby leading to a possible entire failure of the lower unit.
    Factory909 = Unless you had another issue that I wasn't involved with, yours was just not locking down while in reverse gear. And it was fixed with a slight bend to a linkage arm.
     
  11. factory909

    factory909 Well-Known Member

    Qcdually, different motor. I traded that Suzuki for a camo'd Yamaha, for about a day. It was that linkage half way down the shaft.
     
  12. QCDually5.9

    QCDually5.9 Well-Known Member

    Yea, that's the one. Has an adjustment nut on it and can be alittle tricky to set for proper shift. Not so hard after the first hundred or two.
    What are you running now?