[Wes Ramsey]

Now that I've fixed (or am fixing) everything on this motor I'm trading it in on a newer model, but I thought I'd give ya'll a chance at it first. It's got a tiller handle and a short shaft. I've had it on my 14' flat bottom for 2 years and it will run 25-26mph by GPS with me and my gear in it.

Details:
Points, coils and all other electronics are less than 2 years old and in great shape. I'm replacing the crank seal (the one under the stator plate) this week and will reset the points before I put it all back together.

Rebuilt carb with new float. While I was at it, I pulled off the intake/reed plate to make sure the reeds were good (they are) and replaced the gaskets.

New NGK plugs.

Starter was rebuilt last summer.

New seal kit, impeller and clutch dog/yoke in the lower unit. All the gears are in great shape.

Prop was repaired and balanced at John's Welding last year. I also have a spare that needs to be repaired, but the hub is good and would work in a pinch. Also have 2 other spares waiting on new hubs ($50 each for parts/installation at John's).

I still have to finish some work and get it all put back together and tuned up, but I'll let it go for $600/obo. If you're interested, make me an offer and we'll work it out.

 

[LX Shooter]

Can i get a pic of it ?///

[email protected]

 

[pointman]

t/b compression reading?

 

[Wes Ramsey]

I haven't checked the compression since last year, but both cylinders were 108-110 lbs. I'll check it again if you like after I get the crank seal replaced.

I don't have any pics of the motor itself yet, but I'll get some taken and posted in the next couple of days.

 

[Wes Ramsey]

Okay, I got it back together and got some pics of the motor. I haven't had a chance to check the compression, but I can do that this evening.

I took it to Dickerson Marine to get the crank seal replaced, but he said it wouldn't be worth the investment. It leaks a little oil on the stator plate over time, but even after 2 years of running it it wasn't too bad. I cleaned the points up and reset them and it's good to go.

I also figured out a grounding problem while I was putting it back together, so I replaced the starter solenoid and all the wiring (except battery cables). I also replaced all the vacuum hoses while I was at it.

Oh yeah, and I replaced the fuel pump last year.

I took it out to the lake Sunday afternoon to make sure everything worked and was adjusted right. The motor runs like a top. I had to adjust the shift linkage afterwards, but it should be good to go now. I'll take it for another test run as soon as it warms up.

Some other notes on the motor...
Pics don't do it justice! Yeah it's ugly, but she's got plenty of years left on her. I left it ugly so nobody'd wanna steal it! The bracket/handle under the powerhead and the swivel bracket are both from different motors - one is black, the other is blue. Someone years ago modified the cover and put 'start' 'stop' buttons on it. I like the setup better than having an ignition switch. The starter bracket was broken when I got it, and I had a shop repair it. Looks like JB Weld or maybe epoxy, but that stuff is solid.

Motor comes with 6-gal tank and hose, and 3-4 gallons of 32:1 gas/oil with Seafoam fuel treatment in it (good stuff).

Since I didn't replace the crank seal, I'll drop the price to $500/obo.

Any questions, just ask.

 

[Wes Ramsey]

I checked the compression last night and got 130psi on both cylinders without warming it up. Better than what I thought :thumb:

 

[M1Tommy]

That's a clean old motor (wish my old 5 hp was that clean!!!). Someone will get a pretty good deal, there. :thumb:
Tommy

 

[Wes Ramsey]

Well, I did my best to update/rebuild the lower unit but it's shot. It won't stay in either gear. A mechanic told me it was probably the yoke/shift rod is 'sprung'. It also has a leaky seal that I can't find. Now I just wanna get rid of it. The rest of the motor is in good shape - find a good lower unit and you're in business. I'll take $200/obo for the motor and spare lower unit (also not working, but rebuildable.