School me on planting Crimson Clover

Discussion in 'Habitat Management' started by Da' Big Dog, May 14, 2017.

  1. Going in new direction, want to plant Crimson Clover as part of my fall plots. Any advice, tips, do's or don't's? Planting in Dallas county.
     
  2. SwampCat

    SwampCat Well-Known Member

    I would plant a white clover if it was me. I like Imperial Whitetail - and I know a lot of guys will tell you the prepared mixes arent any better - but ai have had good luck with it. Planted a lot of Durana and the Imperial Whitetail has done better for me. That said - for planting pretty much any clover - the seedbed prep is key. It needs to be a good seedbed - dirt as fine as you can get it. If you have all the time in the world - incorporate your fertilizer prior to disking. Also, add your lime requirements three months prior if you are putting down lime. If time is short, till, put your seed and fertilizer down, and cultipack or drag with something do not bury seed. I would also put down about 75 lbs wheat per acre when planting as a cover crop to protect the clover the first year.
     

  3. No-till Boss

    No-till Boss Well-Known Member

    White clover is hard to kill with anything ..
     
  4. The reason for the crimson clover isI'm spicing up my fall food plots in a couple of areas. We have had success with winter wheat/rye/turnips but we need a little extra bang.
     
  5. John Stiles

    John Stiles Ultimate Member<br>2007 Team Turkey Contest Winner

    Crimson comes up wild in my pastures, it sets seed in late April, and the seed heads turn brown in early May. I mow my hay after the heads go brown, and if the wind is blowing, the seeds spread...one more year and my pastures will be wall to wall. I tried Arrowhead, and got very little results because my soil is rocky clay/sand and the crimson didn't get any help from me. It must've blown into my pastures by people hauling hay past here! I'm in Dallas Co.
     
  6. hawgpharm

    hawgpharm Well-Known Member

    Just plant it in the fall with your wheat/oats and it should be fine. Don't plant it too deep.
     
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  7. OuachitaMtnMan

    OuachitaMtnMan Well-Known Member

    I planted an 80/20 or maybe even 90/10 mix of white/red clover and bought my seed from the COOP. 1st, prepare your seed bed. kill all the weeds you can and disk or till and spray again several times until you've got mostly dirt. You'll need lime. You can do a soil test to tell how much but I'm on a budget and cant afford the recommendation anyway so I go with about 500lbs of bag lime and then I buy the liquid plot start from Deergro. 2.5 Gal is equivalent to a ton of lime I believe. I just mix it in the dirt and sometimes the same day as I seed. Probably not the best recommendation but when time and money are limited, you do what you can. 1st year for clover, you wont be hunting clover so you need to plant oats or rye or winter wheat or the like for the deer to eat so that the plot is not only huntable the first year but the "nurse crop" protects your clover as its trying to establish itself. barely drag the oats under because clover doesn't want to be more than an 1/8" deep at most I believe. Late that winter (Jan or Feb), when it's eaten to dirt, broadcast some more clover seed and don't cover it (frost seeding). In May that spring, mow your plot no lower than 6". The clover will do a good job creating a canopy that shades out most weeds but the second year of the plot, when you should be getting a nice clover plot, I spent some money on grass specific herbicide (Hi-Yield grass killer + Hi-Yield surfactant) and a broadleaf herbicide that wouldn't kill my clover (24DB Butyrac) along with yearly weed pulling like you would your garden. I mowed again around August or so to give it time to rejuvenate by hunting season without growing up. This year, I barely needed to mow my clover came in and within a month between end of March and May, had shaded out most competing weeds and I just mowed around the edges and a small spot that had excessive weeds and concentrated on pulling individual weedy flowers and clumps of fescue that were sprinkled in my 6"+ deep clover plot. So basically, the first year of the plot is the most important to long term success. After that its a bit more babying for that 2nd year with weed control and reseeding bare spots etc but by the 3rd year, this plot is doing great requiring a biannual mowing and some hand pulling of weeds
     
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  8. OuachitaMtnMan

    OuachitaMtnMan Well-Known Member

    [​IMG]
    This was the plot when I pulled up to mow it Saturday. I decided not to mow the whole thing but to just hit the weedy spots.
    This was after trimming limbs, mowing around the perimeter and hand pulling weeds and fescue clumps
    [​IMG]
     
  9. SwampCat

    SwampCat Well-Known Member

    The more time, effort, and money I spend on food plots, the more I have come to believe clover is about the perfect single planting for deer. Once established, it is fairly easy to maintain and the deer will use it - and benefit from it - as long as it is green. It is great for turkeys. It is high in protien. Rabbits love it. Every thing on my place seems to utilize it. Great for bees, too. I plan on adding a couple more clover plots this fall - one about four acres that will probably end up being the wildlife mecca on my place.
     
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  10. turkman

    turkman Well-Known Member

    Don't till. Soil test and amend according to soil test.
     
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  11. OMM, you da' man....thanks for the info and all the replies from everyone....camp budget is strict and they want results
     
    OuachitaMtnMan likes this.
  12. I'll say it once again. PLEASE use a cultipacker.